Monday, April 18, 2016

Stone Circle Sunday

What a busy and awesome few weeks we've had here! We had just gotten back from the Netherlands and Whitney's whirlwind tour and it seemed we were off again to Malta. Before that trip, Justin and I took advantage of a free Sunday afternoon to visit some stone circles up in this part of the country.

Our first trip was to Arbor Low, a stone circle on a private farm in the Peak District. One of my favourite things about sightseeing in the UK is that so many amazing things are on private land, and not signed in any way. We had to park on the side of the road, walk up the long farm driveway, then through a few gates and fields to find this circle. Here is the family's cars and laundry, juxtaposed with their ancient-looking stone wall:

Arbor Low is a stone circle and earthen wall that was built before 2000 BC. There is some disagreement as to whether the stones were originally standing upright and fell over, whether they were knocked over on purpose (by people scared of their power, or authorities trying to erase the Druid religion), or whether they were always meant to be flat on the ground. We were there just before a tour started walking through the middle of it, and had a few minutes to get some pictures from the raised earthen wall around the site.
I've been working on being able to catch cloud detail as well as the foreground of the shot, and was really happy with this one!

Not quite as successful. However, at least we lucked out with a beautiful day!
I loved this tiny bouquet left on one of the rocks and am kind of happy that I can only speculate about the story behind it
Tour group moves in
We saw this church as we were driving to our next site and had to stop. Don't know much about it (in fact I'm not even sure what town we were in) but the grounds, graveyard, and inside were all really pretty.
I was really confused that this church wasn't set out on a straight cross/cruciform pattern (I'm standing in the choir and it's offset from the transept in the background). Pretty much every church I've been in before has been practically laid out with a ruler. Due to the age of the building, settling of the ground, difference in building styles (or Anglican churches instead of Roman Catholic?). There was no one else in this church so I had no one to ask.
Interesting skull detail on the gateposts
Next we went to Robin Hood's Stride. This is a formation of soft rock which has been weathered by rain (and lots of grafitti) and is a really popular area for bouldering. I think the more popular area a few hundred meters away had at least 30 people who had schlepped in their own kit and pads through yet another farmer's field. I didn't know this at the time, but Robin Hood's Stride is where Wesley and Fezzik fight in The Princess Bride ('sleep well, and dream of large women').



Justin was not really outfitted for bouldering
You can see a bit of the scratched graffiti here, I didn't actually think to get a specific picture of it

 

We actually came to this field to find Nine Stone Close, also called the 'Grey Ladies' stone circle, and lucked into having a good time looking at the Stride. We almost missed this stone circle, which has the tallest standing stones in the Peak District area. Luckily Justin saw it a few fields over as we were leaving! I can't find any information on how old this stone circle is - just that the stone circles in the area are all thought to date back to the Neolithic Age (3,000-1,500 BC), and this circle was described in books written in the mid 1800's. A local legend states that the stones come to life and dance at midnight.
I didn't know this until afterwards, but apparently the tall stone in the wall in the foreground is thought to be part of the original stone circle and moved by some farmer in years long past. I'm happy I took a picture that includes the wall!
Justin has clearly never read or watched Outlander, and is therefore not worried about touching the stone circles
Looking back towards Robin Hood's Stride
We had a break at this point for the traditional Sunday roast in a small village nearby. I was too hungry to get any pictures of the food (but it was homecooked and much better than the microwaved travesty from a few weekends back), but here are a few pictures to give you a feel for the area.
Pulling up towards the inn

Doll Tor was next on our list. This was the hardest stone circle to find. We had to make a specific turn from an intersection, count the number of meters on the odometer, park on the side of a road, hop a fence and head through a field until we found a large altar rock, then head into woods from there. Literally not one sign or even a well-worn footpath to be found.
The pheasants in this field were handsome, but not very happy to see us 

"Run Away!"
Here is Andle Stone, a stone altar in the field near the circle. Some helpful soul has added metal handles and footholds that allow you to climb to the top, and the view from there is very nice. I didn't take my camera up for fear of breaking it and/or falling.
We wandered into the woods and found this tiny stone circle. I think it was my favourite because it was so well-hidden and secretive. You can almost picture the fairies dancing at midnight here.
Information and layout of the stone circle and burial cairns
Our last stop, just as the sun was starting to set, was the Nine Ladies Stone Circle on Stanton Moor. There are nine small stones, and one outlier known as the 'king stone'. The legend goes that nine ladies and a fiddler came up to the moor to dance and were turned to stone for this insolence. I'm not really clear on why this was such a terrible thing.

This circle was so large that it was actually hard to get it in one shot, as there was no high ground anywhere
It was getting dark at this point and we had hiked much farther than the car than we had planned, so we made a pretty hurried descent back down the forested hill and through the muddy/swampy area below the stone circle back to the road. We did take a few neat pictures along the way through.
Gives you an idea of how damp the surrounding countryside was

I don't know why I was so taken with all of the nests in these trees, but I loved the look of them
While trying to find a shortcut down the hill, I found these carvings in the rock face. I haven't been able to find any information about who made them, but they were very impressive and I hope the artist was attached to a solid tree or rock, as they would have been hanging over a steep drop!
Stanton Tower, overlooking the edge of the cliff
That was the end of our day. The next day, coming home from work, I pulled over to get a few pictures of this awesome sunset. Maybe we can pretend it happened on the way home from Stanton Moor?  Imagine this sky over one of those stone circles.


Next up are pictures from our amazing scuba trip in Malta!


Sunday, April 17, 2016

The Netherlands Day 6




So we started off our last day in The Netherlands with a bright, blue sunny sky, and <Spoiler Alert>, there was no rain for the first day of our trip.


Not to say that there isn't what we would consider typical graffiti around the city, we particularly loved these few that Anne pointed out to us.  Her flat backs onto the back of Amsterdam University, and one year, when they were re-painting the outside of the building, one of her friends sneaked up the scaffolding one night as they were finishing, and added a little something to the wall.


He painted on a girl, holding a bouquet of balloons between the second story windows.

Whether at the same time, or another, he then added a few other characters around the courtyard, I think as friends to the wayward girl.




It was just a lovely day all around today, sun, not too hot, not too cold.  Lovely day for exploring.


So a little bit on the symbols of Amsterdam.  Throughout the week we kept seeing this in shops, on buildings, even stamped into manholes.


On the university gate

Above the university commons

As the university flag (sorry we started our day at the university)

Even on the penis shaped bollards throughout the city.

I thought it referred to the legalized prostitution and was an unofficial symbol of the city.  Kristin though it referred to the various drugs and alcohol that are often consumed during a trip here.  It turns out that the three x's on the red/black flag are actually the official city flag for Amsterdam.  
Legend has it that the three x's are St. Andrew's Crosses, meant to ward off fire, flood and plague (although Amsterdam has used the symbols since before the Black Death arrived in Europe).  It could also be that they are a nod to the original families that owned estates and land surrounding Amsterdam.  The black stripe in the middle of the flag is used in several Dutch cities to symbolize the water that bisects the town, and is vitally important to the country.  Kinda awesome how the city has chosen a flag that people are proud and happy to fly, whatever symbols they see it referring to.

At three different points on our trip, we came upon the Great Crested Grebes in the canals and waterways.  As it's spring, these birds are starting to look for mates, they engage in a rather complicated and well choreographed dance to determine the suitability of their mate.  We have captured a few of the pictures here, but there is a link that Kris found showing the procedure below.   It involved lots of face each other, beaks almost touch, turn head left, look up, touch water on right, look back at each other, and on and on.  








This is the last day of our trip here, we have to leave for the airport at 2:30, so we had intentionally left our day pretty open to 'mop up' on any activities we had missed so far.  We opted to do a boat tour of the canals today.  Give our feet a bit of a rest, and let someone else do the navigating.  Having already seen the city on a bike, and enjoying the ease at which you can get around, the next best way to gain a different perspective on the city is from the water.  











Housing is a big problem in Amsterdam.  The city has very much outgrown its availability of real estate, so prices are skyrocketing, and a lot of people who have been able to afford it traditionally, are now finding themselves priced out of the city centre.  Similar to Venice, the city is built on a marsh (essentially), so all the buildings are supported on wooden piles.  It wasn't confirmed in the same way as in Venice, but I suspect the existing piles limit the height and size of any new buildings that were wanted to be built.
This is the smallest house in the Netherlands.  It's 3 stories, and just over 6 feet wide.  A husband and wife live there, complete with a dog!  I'm just waiting to see this come to pass in Vancouver or Toronto.


Our captain pointed out to us that this is the largest parking lot in the world.... for bikes.  As we've mentioned before, the Dutch are crazy about biking.  


Even in high heels


But often this leads to other problems that many cities don't have to deal with.  Including abandoned bikes, which can take up lots of otherwise available bike parking spaces.  There is also the problem of bikes ending up in the various canals, either because they were stolen, and ditched there, or they were left along the canal on a bike rack for too long, and someone accidentally pitched them over the edge, like above.


But necessity is the mother of invention, so there are salvage barges like this one


Which trawl the canals, and remove all the various things that have accumulated on the bottom.  We heard that up to 5000 bikes per year are pulled from the canal.



From the water, here is the Amsterdam Centraal Station.  A perfect example of European efficiency!


This is the Nero, a marine museum, somewhat directed at children.  It was built into the shape of a ship, and designed so that you can climb out onto the roof and look around.  


This seems like a very permanent house boat.  There are two different types of permits for houseboats in Amsterdam.  The official permits allow for services including water, electricity and gas to be connected to the boat.  Other unofficial ones, are left without all these services, and the residents are on their own to find services, or a way of living without.



Us enjoying the boat ride, and not having to walk / cycle around to see things.


Aaaaannnndddd profile pic!

I particularly loved this photo because the two bridges at 90° to each other have been constructed to look like they have been joined along the deck.  So many bridges!


No modern city is complete without some odd pieces of architecture.


This is a miniture version of a famous floating restaurant in China.  The Chinese original has capacity to seat 5000 diners.  This one is only able to seat 700.  In designing the building to as authentic specifications as possible, a slight miscalculation was used.... the weight of one diner was taken to be that of a chinese person, but the Dutch tend to be a little taller, and a little heavier than the average chinese person.  Not a problem, there's always a safety factor.  On the Gala opening night, the owner was so keen to impress, that he invited not 700, but 850 guests to the restaurant, and once all had arrived, it became obvious that the factor of safety had been exceeded, the resturant began to flood on the main floor, and the guests had to be evacuated!  Oops!


This building used to be part of the fortifications of Amsterdam.  It was added to over the centuries, but the original building (the lowest section) is from the 15 c. if I remember right.



So you may notice that the building here doesn't quite look right.... As mentioned, Amsterdam is built on a marshy area, so most of the buildings are supported on piles.  Over the last several hundred years, many of the buildings have shifted and settled, and now have a noticeable lean to them.  We guessed that all of the various leans and slants were due to this, but we were informed otherwise by our boat captain. 


Since most buildings do not have a stairway inside the building that is wide enough to move furniture in and out, the majority are fitted with a hook in the top of the house, on which a pulley can be attached and all your belongings hauled in and out of the upper floors of the house.  While it may look like the building above is falling forward as it settles, this was (apparently) intentional, and serves two purposes.  The first is it makes it easier to move furniture in and out, without breaking windows or damaging your furniture.  The second is that it reduces the amount of water hitting the windows, and the need to clean the windows (or in older days, the amount of water that would run into the house).  That's the front to back lean that you see.


The side to side lean however, just means you have a sinking house.






A perfect last day in Amsterdam!






So Anne owns a juggling / magic / busker supply store near Amsterdam University.  It was an awfully convenient meeting place for us.  As we were heading out of town, Whitney wanted to show Anne what she had learned using the professional juggling balls that Dad bought many years ago.


They tried to coordinate a two person juggle.  It isn't ready for the big stage yet, but they managed well for a first try.


And with that, we headed back to the train station.

Just a couple of quick stops along the way.

We didn't wander in, and I swear we held our breath as we passed, but this is one of the famous Amsterdam Coffee Shops.

We also found the oldest gay bar in Amsterdam, Cafe t'Mandje as we meandered back.  This bar dates back to 1927.  During the Nazi occupation, the bar owner housed jewish people in the attic, weapons in the basement and German schnapps behind the bar. 




And what could possibly make for a better last experience in The Netherlands than a raw herring from a street meat trailer.  I wouldn't say it was good, but with some pickles and onions, it was bearable.  I can't help but think we earned our honourary Dutch credentials on this trip.


We also found, and started off a new Geocaching Travelbug.  Started in Amsterdam, checked into England, and sent back to Canada with Whitney, we'll see how many times this little traveller can criss-cross the pond between Canada and the Netherlands.


Kristin loved this one.  Every time we arrive at an airport, we have to find a place to dump out our water bottle before going through security, only to search for a place to fill it up again.  This usually means using a garbage bin.  In the train station area, they have provided plants for you to pour out your water!  What a brilliant idea!


And now our last flight on this trip.  Whitney still had 2 more to go before she made it home, but after a frenzied fortnight, I think we were all pleased with how the trip turned out.

All for now.  

I started this post before we went to Malta, I'm finishing it now after we've returned, so there are 7 days of SCUBA diving still to come.