Wednesday, July 27, 2016

Rome - The last really really old stuff we saw - Aqueduct and Appian Way



So coming down from the Knights of Malta Keyhole, we began our great trek to the South to take in our last ancient parts of Rome before our flight this afternoon.
The first stop was perhaps one of the least known remaining features of ancient Rome (I sure had no idea about it till we started researching), the Pyramid of Caius Cesitus... Wait, What!  A pyramid, in Rome!.  Yes and Yes.  

The Pyramid is actually a burial tomb of Gaius Cestius, who was a magistrate in Rome.  The tomb was built around 15 B.C., and today, is one of the most well preserved ancient buildings in Rome, thanks in no small part to it's incorporation into the ancient city wall of Rome.  What should be no surprise, the dimensions of the pyramid are exactly 100 Roman feet (29.6m) square at the base, and 125 Roman feet (37 m) tall.  It's hard to conceive how exact the measurements are, and how sturdy the construction was.  

When it was originally constructed, it stood in the countryside, outside the current city limits of Rome, which had a ban on tombs within the city wall.  As Rome grew enormously during the next two centuries, the pyramid became surrounded by the city, and when the most recent (well 270 CE) Aurelian Walls were constructed around the city, the pyramid was incorporated into the wall at the Porta San Paolo.

Throughout the intervening centuries, the purpose of the pyramid was generally lost to history, often believed to be the tomb of Remus, as there was another pyramid near Vatican (dismantled in the 16th c., and stones used for the stairs of St. Peter's Basilica - Recycle, Reduce, Reuse!) housing the tomb of Romulus.

It underwent major excavation in the 1600's and restoration in the early 2000's, during which the contents (that haven't been pillaged) were catalogued, and the exterior of the pyramid restored.  We got to see the (reasonably) newly revealed work.  



Pyramid of Caius Cestius

Pyramid of Caius Cestius



This is the dazzling white marble in the Med summer sun


This actually got to be a double-visit, as the protestant cemetery (or anti-catholic cemetery) lies just adjacent to the pyramid.  This cemetery is the resting place of many foreign born residents of Rome, commonly British, who would have been visiting the area to experience the curative powers of the Mediterranean air.  One of these individuals was John Keats who died at 25 of Tuberculosis.


Keats on the left, his friend Joseph Severn on the right.  Joseph Severn's  infant son's remains are also laid between and behind the two.  A point often left out of any blogs / details / biographies about the grave and the graveyard.


 It is often mentioned that, as per his last request, his grave does not mention his name, nor date, rather reads:
This grave contains all that was mortal, of a young English poet, 
who on his death bed, in the bitterness of his heart, 
at the malicious power of his enemies, desired these words 
to be engraven on his tombstone: 
Here lies one whose name was writ in water.


 Following our visit to the cemetery, we headed mostly out of town, to the Appian Way (Via Appia), one of the surviving ancient roads, connecting Rome to Brindisi, more than 500 kms away in South East Italy.

As Rome began expanding, the need to move troops and goods around the empire become more and more important.  Existing routes were mainly dirt track, often weathered by animal or human passage, and not at all suitable for high-volume traffic.  So the Romans began extending routes to the edges of the Empire, with Rome being the focal point.  This is the source of the phrase "All roads lead to Rome".

Appia was among the first routes laid out (in 300 BC), and a large portion of it is still in use.  While the roadway itself has been upgraded (dozens of times I suspect) over the centuries, there are many remnants along the way to remind you of it's age, and importance.

We started our walk at the Catacombs of St. Callixtus, but due to timing, we didn't pop in there.

We did however pass this old gate, which we think was used to collect tolls from passengers.  There were some inscriptions to suggest the original tower was dedicated to a deceased daughter 

This is one of the castles or tax stops along the way (it possibly served both functions)



These are the 'old' stones along the way.  The larger cobbles in the centre,  are older than the smaller stones (more common cobble stones) along the sides.  There is only a shorter section that still retains these large paving stones.
Supposedly, when the roads were originally constructed, the mortar filling the joints between the stones were so precise, that there was no bump noticed when driving along the road.
The remains of an old wall along the road.

Some of the houses along the Appian Way were just gorgeous.

Our route back into modern Rome from the furthest extents of the Appian Way, included a bit more ancient Roman history along the way.
We've alluded to it several times... the Ancient Romans were great with their water.   They built extensive aqueducts to supply Rome and other major centres with significant quantities of water for drinking, bathing, and to flush away wastes.  By the 3rd century AD, eleven aqueducts served Rome.

The aqueducts were constructed on a slight downward gradient so water flowed by gravity.  Most were constructed underground or would follow the contours of the land, but occasionally, they were constructed on raised bridgework and arched structures, like what comes to mind when talking about aqueducts.  I remember them being noted in my civil engineering courses for the precision of their construction.  Many of the aqueducts will run for more than 50 km, carry more than 100 000 m3 of water per day, and be constructed with a slope of less than 0.05% (less than 50 cm over 1 km); all this as they wind through hillsides and across vast valleys!  At the peak, they supplied Rome with more than 1 million m3 of water per day; enough for a modern city of 3-5 million people.
There is one section of the ancient Aqua Claudia that is still standing today, and runs mostly adjacent to the Appian Way, so off we set to find it.
This aqueduct was one of the later constructed; around 40 AD to supply water from a spring about 70 km away from the city.  Most of the aqueduct was underground, but as it neared the city, arches were required to maintain the grade.  The tallest of these rose more than 100 feet above ground.

Today, much of the arches are missing, but a surprisingly long section is still visible in Parco degli Acquedotti.  We found it quite funny at the point we crossed under the aqueduct, a sheep herder was moving his flock along the road ahead of us.  I think the sheep were entirely unaware of the significance.





This is pretty well in the middle of nowhere, but still nearby.  I suspect the light section has been rebuilt in the recent renovations / restorations, while the darker is older (I resist saying original)


An overload of civility


Large Arches


This was a much smaller aqueduct (covered) running through the park as well.  I believe this one is still in use, whereas the large sections missing from the grander one probably cause unacceptable losses.

Tiny Arches

So that brought us to the end of our Rome tour.  We left the aqueduct park, and made a quick stop at our AirBNB to get our bags before heading to the airport.  
I know I missed out on a lot of the artistic importance of Rome, Italy and the Vatican, but the civil engineer and lover of old remaining things really enjoyed the trip and all of the exploring of old Rome that we got to walk around.

Friday, July 22, 2016

Rome Part 3: Colosseum (et al.)

After nearly succumbing to heatstroke at Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum, we headed down the street towards Rome's best-known landmark, the Colosseum. Everyone knows this thing is big (it says it in the name!) but I really wasn't prepared for the sheer scale of it, or how central it is in the downtown core. It covers nearly 6 acres, and could seat 50,000-80,000 people.

I wanted to see how this stacked up against other well-known and large stadiums. Here are some comparisons!

Skydome - capacity 54,000  (am I the only one who really can't bring myself to call it anything else?)
Air Canada Centre - 19,800
Wembley Stadium (the UK's largest stadium) - 90,000
Beijing National Stadium (ie the Bird's Nest from the Beijing Olympics) - 80,000

The largest stadium in the world (this was honestly shocking to me) holds 150,000 people (nearly 50,000 more than the second largest stadium!) and is a football (soccer) stadium in Pyongyang, North Korea.

But keep in mind, the Colosseum was built around 70 AD.  I can't imagine what an awe-inspiring sight it must have been for the people in those times. Part of it has collapsed over the years, most noticeably after an earthquake in the 1300's, but it's still standing. And yet my 2 year old smartphone is starting to break....

Anyways, back to the Colosseum. The audio guide that we listened to pointed out the three levels of arches that can be seen, and that the columns between the arches become more ornate as you go up. Plain Doric columns at the ground level, with Ionic columns in the middle and fancy Corinthian columns at the top. The Colosseum was held together without mortar, using metal clamps instead. You wouldn't have been able to see the arches from the inside, as it was clad in marble.

The stage to the left is not original, but gives an idea of the level of the floor, which was usually covered in a thick layer of sand. The walls to the right of the picture are the underground passages, more on them later.
Original marble seating
Artist's rendition of the inside of the Colosseum and what the stands would have been like. Taken from one of the panels at the Colosseum.
I think most people know this, but the Colosseum was used to entertain the people, and also as a way for the emperors to show their power off to the masses by displaying slaves, animals, and goods from the farthest reaches of the empire. Apparently there were spectacles all day, and most people brought their own food and drinks there (in the picture above you can see people grilling in the stands). There have been dice and other gambling items excavated that show people played games in the stands. There is even graffiti carved in the original surfaces that date back to Roman times.
  The gladiator combats are most famous spectacles from the Colosseum, and apparently (although I've found sources that question this) they used to be able to flood the ampitheatre and stage mock sea battles! Once they put in the passageways under the stage floor to allow dramatic entrances and exits up to the stage floor using elevators (!) they would have lost the ability to flood it.
 

As the Roman empire fell and buildings were no longer maintained, people began to plunder the statues, marble cladding, and iron clamps from the building. After the south wall collapsed in the 1300s, people took the stones for building materials. Coming from such a young country, Justin and I always get such a kick out of this idea (think back to the man who used a piece of the abbey's carved stone cross for a gravestone for his son, or farmers stealing pieces of Hadrian's Wall for their farmhouses). Apparently the steps at St. Peter's Basilica are partially made from Colosseum stone!

Which dovetails neatly with the fact that, besides tourism, the main use of the Colosseum these days is for religious ceremonies. I learned from one of the panels that on Good Friday, the Pope does the Stations of the Cross in the ampitheatre. John Paul II used to carry the cross himself until he was too elderly and unwell to do so. 

The cross in the picture above is said to be in memory of the Christian martyrs thrown to the lions, although there's not strong evidence that this ever actually happened. Our guide suggested this was the place where the emperor sat, and where the gladiators would give their famous salute "Ave, Imperator, morituri te salutant" ("Hail, Emperor, those who are about to die salute you") although sadly that may not have happened either. Oh well, why wreck a good story with facts?
There were two significant sites visible from inside the Colosseum. One is the Arch of Constantine, which was built in 315 AD. Constantine had it built to celebrate his victory over Maxentius (I presume the same one who had the large former Basilica/current stage in the Roman Forum named after him). We just saw it from afar, but it was very pretty.
This next structure was the Temple of Venus and Roma, and our audio guide pointed it out from the upper floor of the ampitheatre. It was built in the 120's AD and was dedicated to two gods (unusual to have them share a temple, usually gods and goddesses got their own); Venus Felix (Venus who brings good fortune) and Roma Aeterna (Eternal Rome). Although the temple has long since been looted, it apparently had two huge statues of the two goddesses sitting back to back. Venus looked towards the Colosseum (bringing luck to the combatants?) and Roma looked towards the Roman Forum. Their names written together made a pallindrome, since another word for Venus is love, or AMOR.
That was it for the big city centre attractions - we hopped on a bus and headed to our next stop. But the Colosseum stayed on our minds, for some reason...
In case it's not clear, this is not the Colosseum. But it sure confused me for a second!
(Edit - before I published this post I found out that this is the Teatro Marcellus. The Emperor Augustus built a theatre on this spot, which in modern times has had apartments added to the top floor. Imagine living in a tiny version of the Colosseum? I wonder what the rent is like.)

We saw a few neat things on this bus ride. Only in Rome have we seen streets being repaved with cobblestone after maintenance. I have to say I'd never considered how they do it!
And this is the Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland), which was built to celebrate the first king over a unified Italy. Before the time of this king, the different areas in Italy were basically independent city-states (even today, a resident of Sicily is more likely to call themselves a Sicilian rather than an Italian - unless an international sports team is playing somewhere!). We didn't plan to go see it, but our bus stopped right in front, so I grabbed this picture! It looks huge and very ornate.
We finished the night with some drinks and dinner, and found out how people keep cool when the nights don't drop below 20-25*C. Nice patio fans and misting tents! 
Justin enjoying his evening coffee
On our last morning we crisscrossed the city, soaking in the sights. We decided to start by walking up another one of the Seven Hills of Rome, Aventine Hill, for a very special view.
This panorama was lovely, but it wasn't what we were after
Nor was this (but I had bought the dress the night before and was very excited to wear it!)
Also very pretty, but not our destination
We're here!
Wait, why is everyone lining up in front of this closed door?
It's a nice door I guess, but a shame that it's so scratched around the keyhole. Wonder why that is?
I think I'll look through it...
Hey, what's that?
Focusing....
Wow!
This is the Knights of Malta Keyhole, and it is a very cool little spot in Rome. The Knights of Malta are the world's oldest surviving chivalric order (like the Knights Templar, or the Knights of the Round Table), and are a sovereign group, meaning they have their own passports, currency and stamps! (Wish I'd known that while we were there, that would have been an awesome stamp and coin to collect!). This building is their embassy (so Rome has three sovereign capitals: Italy, Vatican City and the Knights of Malta). They do a lot of missionary and medical work, but they exist to protect the Catholic Church. And I don't know if that's the entire reason that this private garden is aimed directly at St. Peter's Basilica, but it's a very neat thing to see. I wish I could have taken a lot more time to take more pictures, but people behind were wanting their turn, so I'll leave you with some great ones I found online, and leave the rest of the day for Justin to talk about!
http://travelphotos.everything-everywhere.com/Europe/Italy/Rome/i-Rxj54v7/A
Credit: Gary Arndt
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/493073859184702172/?from_navigate=true
Credit: redhed17 . on 500px.com

https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_color_inside/6104080032
Credit: thecolorinside
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/123215739774981863/
Credit: julija_v