Eastern Europe: Vilnius

Our second stop on this tour was in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania. This became our nearly first 3-country day of the trip!

We left from Riga early in the morning on the Lux Express bus.  There are remarkably few trains to take between the Baltic states, so our first two legs of the European Rail tour involved taking the bus.  If we had wanted to train, we would have had to travel through Minsk, and while I’m sure Belarus is lovely this time of year, we definitely did not need to add a 10^th country to this trip.

The first trip was a short 4 hr hop from Riga to Vilnus early in the morning.  We arrived to the Vilnius bus station around 10 am.  Knowing we’d be leaving from here in just more than 11 hours, we found a left-luggage service and checked our two big bags, so we were light footed for the day.

Our original plan was to get a bus pass for the day; they cost about €3.50 for unlimited travel.  When we arrived, I opened Google Maps and was surprised to find our fastest route of travel around Vilnius was actually to just walk.  The bus took longer to get anywhere than walking did, so we saved the €7 (spent that on beer later), and tackled Vilnius on foot.

On into the heart of Vilnius, we walked to the Hales Market, a farmers market that has been central to trade in Vilnius for more than 100 years. We had been trying to find one of the original bagel makers in this market, but unfortunately were not able to locate the right stall, so we grabbed some Georgian cheese and spinach turnover flaky goodies instead.  We were, again, amazed that even in a country where English doesn't rank in the top 3 languages, we really had very few issues speaking in English.  It's truly a privilege that we are able to travel so easily to so many different countries.  I can't imagine how much more difficult this trip would be without the ease of communication, and the ready access to translating technology that we have. Kristin’s favourite part of the market was when she found a vet clinic located right beside the butcher shop.  I hope they haven’t shared customers or products!

Hales Market

You’ll soon notice a recurring theme of these trips being the free walking tours of various cities.  Vilnius was no exception.  We found an English tour that started around 11, so we turned up at the meeting point and started our history lesson of Lithuania.

Our guide was really knowledgable and helpful about the history and culture of Lithuania; and she was especially easy-going about the common mistakes people often make between Latvia and Lithuania, so she embraced and explained the common history quite well. 

We began the tour at the city hall.  Outside the city hall they have a plaque commemorating the inauguration of Lithuania into NATO, with a speech by US President George Bush.  The Lithuanians were awfully proud that President Bush stated that, as a member of NATO, Lithuania was now an ally of the US, and anyone who messes with Lithuania, messes with the US.   Their pride was not so long-lasting when President Bush then used the exact same speech the next day to welcome Romania to the same bloc!

Day 3 of our perfect weather streak.  Vilnius, like Riga, is picturesque without even trying.

This is the US/ NATO plaque

A common staring point for these walking tours is to provide a very brief ancient history to modern day synopsis of the country.  In the case of Lithuania, the first settlements were established here 4000 years ago.  The history of Lithuania is quite similar to Latvia, owing to their relative size and the proximity of the two capital cities.

Lithuania started out as an independent country before becoming part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.  The commonwealth lasted from the mid 1500's until the mid 1700's.  At its height, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth comprised 1,200,000 square kilometres (an area the size of modern day South Africa), and had a population of 11 million.

Following the dismantling of the PL-Commonwealth, Lithuania tried to go it alone as a sovereign state.  That didn't last long, as many of it's neighbours (including Prussia) were expanding their sphere of influence, and well, they went along with it.  For the next 300 years, Lithuania would be almost continuously occupied; first they were part of the Russian empire, then were taken over by Prussia, then had a brief 20 year stint of independence,  then the full on Nazis, followed by the Soviets.  It wasn't until 1990 that Lithuania was established as a modern independent country. Lithuanians actually take this history with a bit of pride, as they are one of the only countries I know of that celebrate two independence days!

Our tour started along the German Street. It was so named because in the 1800's, almost all of the Germans in Lithuania lived on the one street.  The Lithuanian population was mainly farmers / agrarian population, and the German immigrants were responsible for urbanizing the country / capital, and causing a draw of people from the surrounding countryside.  Because all the Germans ended up living in a single neighbourhood, the area was named after the residents.  There are also some interesting building elements here that mix Soviet and European styles.  The street itself is double wide (this is actually because a block of flats were not re-built following the war, so the street was opened up with a central pedestrian walkway) but among the buildings and infrastructure, you can see very soviet style buildings on one side of the street, and very German styles on the other.  The roadway on one side is asphalt, while the other is cobble stones.  Fun little differences to make the area unique.

Decorated and individual German buildings on the left side of the street...

... with very similar Soviet-style buildings on the other (picture them all grey instead of painted bright colours)...

...and a really nice central promenade in the middle.

Just behind the German Street was an area that had been the Jewish quarter.  Today, the area is more or less unrecognizable, as many of the traditional Jewish buildings and symbols were either bombed or bulldozed over the last hundred years.  What struck me more on this trip than any other we have been on, or at any other time in my life, was the way that history has not just a symbolic, but a very real impact on the lives, the architecture, the past and the future.  Where in North America, history is often taught as an abstract idea, in many of the places we visited it remains a moment or a strong influence in the ongoing history of the place.  

In Vilnius, 1/3rd of the residents were Jewish at the start of WWII.  Within 6 months of the Nazis invading the country, more than 90% of the Jewish population had been exterminated.  Many of the citizens were not even taken to concentration camps, but were taken outside the city and shot in a forest or field.  Even today, the Jewish population of the city has not recovered to pre-WWII levels.

This was inside the open-air courtyard of a building.  A depiction of one of the Lithuanian Pagan gods (maybe of Nature) riding a bear.

So how about some religion.  Lithuania is officially a Catholic country.  The country was made Catholic in the 1400's, following a program of National Baptism, but despite the official recognition, Lithuania maintains many pagan and naturalist symbols combined with the traditional Catholic.
To this end, Lithuanian churches often have a unique cross, and will incorporate many traditional elements into the service.

During the national baptism, the Government tried to baptize entire communities at once, so every man attending each ceremony would get the same baptismal name (this is the Jonas ceremony, next is the Luke ceremony...), and each woman their own as well.  For being baptized, each person was given a linen shirt, a rather expensive possession at the time.  Many citizens are reported to have arrived to be baptized 3 or 4 times in order to improve their wardrobe.

There are lots of churches in Lithuania, but with its rocky history between the Russian, Nazi, and Soviet occupations, the churches have fallen into disuse.  The state is leading a program to recommission many of the most historically important churches, but the pace is slow, and the funding is limited. So many churches remain unfinished and essentially abandoned.  One church, not yet restored (needs lots of money), is being leased as a cell tower to increase revenues.

This doesn't quite meet Ontario safety standards.  A 4 meter deep open pit with a flimsy 2x4 railing to protect the public.

This is an old church which had been turned into a grain store house during Soviet times.  Its awaiting refurbishment.  You can see the unique Lithuanian cross atop the spire, as well as cell phone antenna, wired up to the 'high point' in the neighbourhood.

Our next major stop on the tour was the Republic of Uzupis; a not entirely independent semi-autonomous community, similar to Christiana Freetown (which we visited in Denmark).  Unlike Christiana, Uzupis was established with a clear purpose (besides selling drugs) and with a written constitution.  The 'town' is meant to appeal and cater to a more artistic lifestyle, although it is very welcoming to foreigners and visitors.

The name Uzupis means 'other side of the bridge' and wouldn't you know it, we had to cross a bridge to enter.  The town of Uzupis has an official customs and immigration post to check passports, visas and residency cards of all those entering, however its only officially open on one day a year - April 1st, April Fools Day.  On that day, entry to Uzupis requires a visa, which is a smile.  On any other day of the year, it is possible to get an Uzupis passport stamp, but you have to either go to the visitor information centre, or the Parliament (which is the pub).  We sought them out, and now have in our passport what must be one of the most unusual passport stamps in the world.

As for the constitution of Uzupis, it's a living document which is taken very seriously in the Republic. So seriously in fact, they have translated it into 26 different languages (and counting, including Georgian) and hung it prominently on a wall for all to see.

The Užupis Constitution terms:

1. Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnele, and the River Vilnele has the right to flow by everyone.

2. Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.

3. Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation.

4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.

5. Everyone has the right to be unique.

6. Everyone has the right to love.

7. Everyone has the right not to be loved, but not necessarily.

8. Everyone has the right to be undistinguished and unknown.

9. Everyone has the right to idle.

10. Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat.

11. Everyone has the right to look after the dog until one of them dies.

12. A dog has the right to be a dog.

13. A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of nee.

14. Sometimes everyone has the right to be unaware of their duties.

15. Everyone has the right to be in doubt, but this is not an obligation.

16. Everyone has the right to be happy.

17. Everyone has the right to be unhappy.

18. Everyone has the right to be silent.

19. Everyone has the right to have faith.

20. No one has the right to violence.

21. Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance.

22. No one has the right to have a design on eternity.

23. Everyone has the right to understand.

24. Everyone has the right to understand nothing.

25. Everyone has the right to be of any nationality.

26. Everyone has the right to celebrate or not celebrate their birthday.

27. Everyone shall remember their name.

28. Everyone may share what they possess.

29. No one can share what they do not possess.

30. Everyone has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.

31. Everyone may be independent.

32. Everyone is responsible for their freedom.

33. Everyone has the right to cry.

34. Everyone has the right to be misunderstood.

35. No one has the right to make another person guilty.

36. Everyone has the right to be individual.

37. Everyone has the right to have no rights.

38. Everyone has the right to not to be afraid.

39. Do not defeat.

40. Do not fight back.

41. Do not surrender.

It has been argued that the last 3 are actually the motto of Uzupis, but we won't dwell on that.  I think my favourite part of several of the clauses is how absolutely prescriptive they are, if you want to follow them.

It's very hard to get a good photo of a mirror-like material.

In the centre of Uzupis is a statue which was erected to commemorate the founding of Uzupis.  A local artist was commissioned to create a sculpture of a guardian angel to watch over the republic and ensure its safety.  As the day for the unveiling arrived, rumours spread that the artist hadn't finished the work; so people became curious what would be unveiled.  The night before the unveiling, the sulpture was raised to the top of the plinth under shroud, and on the day of the unveiling, a giant egg was uncovered.  The artist, who had in fact run out of time to complete the sculpture, told the waiting crowd, that the angel was in the egg on top of the monument, and would emerge when 'ready'.  What a great way to buy yourself a few extra weeks!  Once the angel was presented, the egg actually became a prized possession of the residents of the republic and was placed elsewhere on display.

As Uzupis is located 'on the other side of the river', the bridges of Vilnius become important not only for crossing the rivers, but also during wedding ceremonies.  During a wedding, the wedding party goes to bridge, attaches a love lock, and the groom then carries his new bride across the bridge.  Doing so ensures the couple will have a long lasting marriage.  So being one of the shorter bridges in Vilnius, the bridge to Uzipus tends to be one of the more popular.

A warning, and some of the laws and customs of Uzupis.

Love locks and a topless mermaid sitting over the river.

Signs in Uzupis pointing to other similar towns

The official symbol of Uzupis (the hand), and the 3 dots, the flag of Christiana Freetown.  The bike rack was given to Uzupis from Christiana as a diplomatic gift.

This statue is called "Jesus, the world's first backpacker."

Placing your hand into the cutout on top of this pillar is supposed to give you wisdom

The statue of the Guardian Angel

Posing by the Uzupis sign

On April 1st several years ago, some of the residents of Uzupis arranged for this water fountain near the Angel statue to pour free beer. It hasn't been repeated, but apparently tourists come every April Fool's Day expecting their free beer!

Advertising is unnecessary.  What services do you think I could get from Herr Katt?

Kristin also took a swing on their 'river swing', hung from the bridge (with the love locks) above.  It's good she didn't stay there too long, because less than a minute after she left, two girls in kayaks rammed into the swing when they lost control!

Leaving Uzupis

Talking about religion once more; there are a ton of old churches in Lithuania, some of which are not just remarkable for their scale, but also for their construction.  The one below, The Church of Saint Anne, is one of the largest brick built constructions of a church in the world.  Replacing an older wooden church, the current building is much the same today as when it was built in 1500!  Upon seeing it during the Franco-Russian War, Napoleon was said to like it so much he threatened to dismantle and move it back to Paris "in the palm of his hand".

Inside the 500 year old brick church

Our tour also took us through Artist's Row, which is a street along which hundreds of small art pieces adorn the walls.  It was also the location of our Lithuanian geocache.  I don't think we spent quite enough time here, but on a walking tour it's not the kind of thing to dwell on for long periods.  If you go, definitely worth it to get an iced coffee and just wander up and down the street.

The presidential mansion is a fairly new addition to Vilnius, as independence has been an issue until the last 30 years.  After Independence, it was decided that a proper Home and Office of the President was needed (way less security than the White House), so this existing palace was selected, and redesigned.  When it was designed, the Engineer on the project didn't visit the site (always a good start to a project), so it wasn't discovered until much too late that the palace foundations actually extend well into the roadway, and even maybe the adjoining property of the Vilnius University.   A very awkward demolishing of the University building, and re-design of the road pattern was carried out, that doesn't so much hide as it clearly reminds everyone of the mistake that was made.

Speaking of the President, we were told of the most commonly known thing about Lithuania and its government leadership; that if you park your car illegally, it may get run over by a tank!

Tank video!

This was a publicity stunt several years ago with a planted car, but it started a movement to take back the bike lanes from drivers parked illegally.  The president even distributed stickers (like the one below) for people to stick onto illegally parked cars as a badge of shame.

Source: http://www.onefoottsunami.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/20111004tankmayor/sticker.gif

We thought it would be an awesome souvenir, but they aren't made anymore.

We were also given a helpful moniker to remember the Lithuanian flag by: the top yellow stripe is for the sun that shines down on Lithuania, the green is for the wood forests that fill the landscape, and the red is for the blood of the citizens who died fighting to achieve (then re-achieve) independence of the country.

Photo credit: https://studyabroadlithuania.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/stock-photo-9952649-lithuanian-flag.jpg

The last stop of our free walking tour was at the Vilnius Cathedral.  It's a Roman Catholic Cathedral located pretty much right in the centre of the old town.  It has been central to the lives of Lithuanians since its construction in the 1700's (though the site was also a pagan worship site for 700 years previously).  The scale of the cathedral is hard to capture; it might just suffice to say it's awesome! There are two interesting things happening just outside the cathedral, one very big, the other very small.  The big first; the bell tower for the cathedral is not actually connected to the cathedral at all; it's located about 50 m in front; where it towers above the cathedral itself.  The second is the wishing stone inlaid in between the bell tower and the cathedral.  It's good luck to stand on this stone, turn around 3 times without stepping off, and make a wish.  If you managed to not step off, it'll come true.

After the tour, we decided to climb to the Gediminas Tower; part of the original fortress of Vilnius. Located right behind the Cathedral, on what we were told was one of the larger 'mountains' in Lithuania, it offers an obvious strategic advantage. Again we were amazed at how few safety features there were in place as you look out over the edge, but the views were quite remarkable.

It was from Gediminas Tower that the Baltic Chain either began (or ended, depending what nationality the speaker is; Lithuanias say it began here, Estonians say it began in Estonia).  In 1989, as a demonstration against Soviet rule, some 2 million people from Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia joined hands in a 675 km long human chain; to show solidarity with each other and against communism.

So that  marks most of the walking and sightseeing we did for the entire day.  We did stop for some authentic Lithuanian food along the way.  The first restaurant we went to for lunch was Forto Dvoras; and we went whole hog for the Lithuanian food.

This was not to be a small meal, as we had just two chances today to try, well, all of the traditional food of Lithuania.  We started with a fried bread and cheese sauce that's usually served as their 'bar snack' while drinking beer... oh, we also had beer  (check).  The first beer I had was good, but what both Kris and I both liked more was the locally made Mead, served on tap!  It was such a nice subtly sweet drink.  Perfect for the rest of our food.

We then had Zepplins, which are stuffed then fried potatoes, along with a chilled beetroot, dill and egg soup (the eggs weren't too bad, so I even enjoyed it), and some potato latkes, also a specialty. We rounded off our meal with something that is very traditional; a boiled pigs ear!  Since our parents taught us well, we both tried a bite of it, and then even managed another bite, but that was all we could muster.  Fried pig is delicious; it's bacon, it's pork chops, it's ham, for God's sake!  Boiled pig is a different matter, especially when it's ear meat, with the cartilage still in place.  Never before in my life did I think I'd say the words I did on this day.... "I think I preferred the bull's testicles."

Alas, it just wasn't our thing.  Kristin and I both think it was the only meal in the entire year we had that we pretty much just left on our plates.  Not a bad record for the year of strange foods we tried!

All the same, Forto Dvoras is a great restaurant, especially the basement dining room, which is comprised of little alcoves and rooms that look as though they were dug out of the earth.  

Beer, and soup, and cheesy bread and dumplings

Yep, that's a pigs ear!

We were a little surprised with a few sights in Vilnius that made us think we'd already gone home to Canada. The first was welcoming;

The second, maybe not so much...

Hey, somewhere that likes Nickelback!

The rest of our time in Vilnius was mostly walking around looking at the lovely architecture and enjoying the fantastic weather before our overnight bus trip to Warsaw.  The architecture was gorgeous, and the people were generally lovely.

I may try to make a post of all the places over the year that we saw Philippi (or a variant).  This was one of dozens of times it surprised us by showing up.

Our souvenir instead of the tank-car-bike sticker.

We finished our day with another traditional Lithuanian dinner (no pig's ear this time!) at a restaurant recommended by Dave and Sarah, our London friends. At Lokys, we were treated to a beaver stew, and a Lentil salad; washed down with a healthy shot of Lithuania's version of Jagermeister.  

False advertising; but I like it.

We ended our day by waiting for our bus at a speakeasy near the bus terminal, enjoying some drinks.
I think we managed to do a pretty good amount of Vilnius given we were only here for 12 hours!

On to the next country.  (Oh god, the overnight bus sucked so very very bad!)  We didn't cross into Poland until about 2 am, so today wasn't quite a 3 country day; but as any seasoned traveller knows, you start acting like you're at the destination as soon as you step on the plane, train or bus.